Sung to the tune of Elvis Costello and the Attractions “I Don’t Want to Go to (Chelsea)”.
So, fellow humans, I’ve traveled to Enoshima so you don’t have to. Yes, Endoshima is an island linked to the mainland by a footbridge. Yes, many folks have traveled to the island and yes, there is a shrine to the poet Basho, on the far side of the island. Finally, you could climb up to the Enoshima “Candle” and look out over the ocean (and in good weather see Mt. Fuji). All of the above is true. The question I have: is it worth it. My humble response is no.
While you will find many places in Japan filled with tourist shops and restaurants, Enoshima seems particularly prone to these kinds of places. Absolutely nothing wrong with folks plying their trade and the visit didn’t have the payoff in terms of historical and cultural significance. For example, compared to an island like Miyajima near HIroshima, you’ll find less there, there.
Combine the above information with the fact you will climb, climb, climb to the top on a significant number of stairs…maybe not Fujimi Inari level stairs, but close, and your work doesn’t necessarily match the experience. You could purchase escalator tickets (!!) to make your journey a bit less challenging, and you wouldn’t get the payoff of walking up 42 flights of stairs for the KMs you’re walking. I’m not really complaining, just a little frustrated that in the few hours I have left in Japan, I really want to spend my time more wisely. If you’ve got lots of time in Japan then Enoshima might be worth the adventure.
Without doubt
Flowerlike sea spray is
Spring of the bay
Despite all of that, the real payoff for this day was my visit to Kamakura. First and foremost, I absolutely love this place. I’ve now been all over the town and have felt like so many possibilities for both contemplation and adventure are in this place. Combined with the wonderful people I met, I haven’t found many places that equal the wonder of this place.
Hoping off the train at Kamakura, you’re presented immediately with two choices: left off the train leads you to a street filled with more common tourist opportunities like a cafe where you can hold owls or the ubiquitous ramen shops. To the left, you’ll walk into the town that is dramatically more quiet with shops filled with locally crafted art, jewelry, and food. My favorite spot is The Ramen Shop, a family-owned business that serves some wonderful Sio ramen broth. Purchase your ticket, have a seat at the bar (about 10 seats), and enjoy the Japanese jazz music and the wonderful ramen.
Instead of taking a bus or train close to the main attraction, the Daibatsu, I have chosen to walk from town to the sites. along the way, you’ll run into a variety of stores and restaurants. If you’re on the right side of the road, you’ll find Modernato Coffee Shop. Stop in and have some hand-crafted coffee (it takes a while) and a dessert. Sit at a window seat and just hang.
The Daibatsu is the star of this show and even if it’s crowded, you’ll be inspired by the view. Constructed in the 13th century, the building that once surrounded it is now gone…as legend states, destroyed by a tsunami, the bronze sculpture and pedestal are the only remaining structures. Reconstruction of the building happened soon after and that too fell to a fire in a civil conflict in the area. Restoration began again in the late 18th century and then later in the 20th. regardless of the history, you’ll find a remarkable bronze Buddha. As many times as I’ve visited this spot, the reveal of the Buddha as you walk along the path is magical. If you’ve read this far and you’d like to visit, walk slowly….turn the corner, and allow the vista to unfold. It’s amazing.
Not far from the Daibatsu is the Hasedera shrine and temple complex. The ancient caves are worth the crawl and the place holds a gold-gilt Kannon sculpture in the main shrine room. The dim light of the room combined with the presence of the statue was as peaceful a place as I’ve ever found, and I stayed in this moment for as long as I could, basking in the warm glow of the space.
Each of these moments today gave me something to consider…I went from joy to frustration on this day and then exhaustion as I had walked more than 15 miles, much of it uphill. After I made it back to my room, I relaxed with some soccer on TV and well-deserved sleep.
May you be happy, may you be well
gentryfunkblog 