Bhutan Day 5: In Bumthang

You could feel it in the air as we crossed the pass; the remnants of winter’s chill holding onto the air in this high country (about 11,000 feet). Clouds hung low over the mountains as ribbons of rain tinted the sky dark gray in the distance. Our drive from Trongsa was manageable, and we had the chance to wander, a bit, to see textiles and the ancient ways of weacing using a loom and plant-dyed yak wool, as well as just settle into an early evening in Chamkar.

At this 1/2 way point in our travels in Bhutan, we’re in a groove, many of us no longer saddled with restlessness and lack of sleep. Each day we’re eager to se what’s next, what’s around the corner, and what new story we’ll hear from Tenzin.

As I did yesterday, I’ll let you hear from folks on our trip and their insights and experiences in the Land of thhe Thunder Dragon. In this 6th visit to this p[lace, I remain in awe of the ways in which people live their lives, weaving together the ancient and the modern in such unique forms. As in all places and cultures, managing the pressure of capitalist demands and retaining cultural identity is a huge struggle for the country and the people.

Like so many of us in the world, navigating consumption and sustainability is a dance that few have managed to learn. When you’re here you can see how capitalist culture slowly strips away local knowledge and customs, attacking the very core of personal and community freedom. At the asme time, I am a part of that process, bringing colonial identities into this place. The tension for the Bhutanese and Bhutan is to maintain the delicate balance of tourism (one of the three pillars of the economy) and providing guardrails around established tradition and identity. That’s a lot of deep information for this light-hearted blog, and it needs to be said.

Beth: So far, we have learned and seen so many aspects of the culture. What I have found is how progressive the community is and the religion. They welcome people from outside including tourists which they consider as guests. It was also surprising that since they have such and old and long-term way of thinking and living within their culture they are so open to people being LGBTQ+ or whatever made people happy and healthy and love who they are, which is much more higher thinking than most countries are still working on. 

Luisa: This has been an amazing trip. From the spectacular building, breathtaking views, kind and welcoming people, learning about this country has open my interest in learning more about Buddhism. I considered this “A trip of a lifetime”. Love some words they use here: there is no good bye, there is I’ll see you again, there is no tourist, you are a guest.

Photos will be posted as soon as the connection is better!

Bhutan Day 4: From Punakha to Trongsa

The center of political power in Bhutan is firmly situated in Trongsa, the former capital of the country. The former province was among the most economically powerful in the region for centuries before the country of Bhutan existed as a single entity. Testimony to that past is the massive Dzong sitting on a north-south axis.

Our travels today took us to the Dzong, the National Museum, and various stops along the way seeing yak, photographing the mountains and riding our small bus for hours.

I asked our group to write something about their experiences so far. Today you’ll hear from a few people as they consider this trip. Enjoy the photos and commentary!

Ronan: One of my favorite moments so far in this trip was the Hong Kong Ladies’ night market, where we tried really good food and bought fun things. We saw a lot of people selling clothing, bags, and other souvenirs. I also tried these beef skewers that I thought were going to be questionable, but they were good. They were slowly grilled and seasoned to perfection. Sadly, we didn’t bring enough cash to buy more things so all we were able to get was the food and 3D printed snakes. 

Nancy: My favorite moment of the trip thus far was waking up at 2am in Thimphu and happening to glance out the hotel window to see a giant golden buddha statue glowing in the dark of the night. I rubbed my eyes to make sure I was seeing correctly, and opened them again to realize it was indeed, still there! I felt welcomed by the country of Bhutan and watched over as I went back to sleep for a few hours. We visited the statue the following day and I later learned that the giant statue was transported to the area in three pieces. I can imagine the shock of seeing the giant pieces traveling on the road by all those they passed along the way.  

Brian: Thus far I am most struck and enjoying the continuous array of prayer flags throughout the environment. Strung on bridges; wrapped around stupas; planted high on hillsides or ridge lines on long vertical poles; yellow ones lining the winding road ascending the mountain to the golden buddha; tall white funereal ones planted in groups high on hillsides commemorating a relative. They are literally everywhere and bring so much color and joy to traveling through this beautiful landscape.

Plant-dyed yarn, Bumthang (photo by Nancy)
Loom in Bumthang (photo by Nancy)
Prayer Wheel, Trongsa Dzong (photo by Brian)
Tenzin and his Mom in Tsangkhap
House in Tsangkhap Village near Trongsa
Trongsa Dzong
Max at Trongsa
Beth at Trongsa
Ronan at Trongsa

Bhutan Day 3: In Punakha

We’ve settled into a rhythm, now, of meeting people and particiapting in activities each day. On this day, we hiked to Khamsam Yulley Namgyal Chorten, learned about traditional Bhutanese beliefs about demons (metaphorical ones that haunt our minds), rafted down the Mo Chu, learned about Vajrayana Buddhism at the Punakha Dzong, and then walked the longest suspension bridge in the country.

Today, you’ll see images from our day, as well as some insights from our travelers. You’ll see more of their words and images than mine as we got through the trip. Internet connections are not great, so I’ll upload images as soon as I can!

Early Morning in Punakha
Punakha Dzong, the center of the monastic body in Bhutan

Our day was perfect as we drove to the trailhead to Khamsam Yulley Namgyal Chorten. At this point you cross the Mo Chu over a suspension bridge and hike through rice patties, wheat fields, and crops potatoes. The hike contours around the hill the temple sits on and the trail is well used and the steps are of various heights making the hike a climb in some places.

Once at the temple, Tenzin explained the importance of the site, and we took the four flights of stairs to the top, overlooking the Mo Chu Valley.

Crossing the Mo Chu by bridge
The Chorten

After our visit, we headed back down for our rafting trip. The river was calm, and that allowed us to splash, laugh, and generally just enjoy the experience as we floated past 1000 year old structures and were guided by Namgay who did his own splashing. It was a blast and a fun reprieve from Dzong-Temple-Dzong.

Rafting the Mo Chu!

From their we dried off and visited Punakha Dzong. This temple complex is among the most impressive I’ve ever seen and the shrine room was filled with monks chanting and beating drums. The moment was incredible, and we entered the room in awe of what we were hearing and seeing.

Our last adventure of the day took us to the longest suspension bridge in Bhutan. The wind and the rocking made from some interesting moments and we enjoyed making it across and back.

Exhausted from this long day, we ate a quick meal, and headed to bed. Tomorrow’s trip to Bumthang promises to be equally compelling!

Bhutan Day 2: Winding Roads to Punakha

With a little more sleep and a bit more refreshed we made our way around Thimphu for the morning visiting the handmade paper factory, the Dordenma statue that overlooks the city, and on the road to Punakha.

Our morning began at 7:00 AM and after a tasty breakfast, we traveled to the J-P Paper Factory. The process is fascinating and we took our time understanding the paper preparation and asking questions. Made from the bark from the Daphne tree, the bark is stripped, separated by hand, and then made into a mush/slurry in water that is then transferred to a vat where a worker uses a bamboo screen to separate the mush from the water. Individual sheets are pressed and then separated to dry. As you can see from these images, the work is involved and detailed.

From the factory, we drove the steep hills to Dordenma Buddha temple complex and toured the shrine rooms and grounds. The project, begun in 2006 is nearing completion, and the site is massive. The intricate craftwork, painting, and statuary are remarkable (I use this work A LOT in Bhutan), and we heard from Namgay and Tenzin about the project and its importance to Bhutan.

We had a bite ot eat (food on this trip has been exceptional), and drove the winding roads to Punakha with a stop at Dochu-la Pass. The Pass is the site of Chortens that honor important individuals in Bhutan, their ashes interred in the structures.

Chortens about 6 feet tall on the pass

Our adventures led us to the inevitable purchase of dried cheese. A delicacy inspired by culinary experts, this cheese is available at roadside stands almost everywhere in the country. I offered ONE caveat to those brave souls who decided to purchase these bits of hard ambroisa: they are a commitment in time in your mouth. To be specific, HOURS of time in your mouth. See, the cheese is rock-hard…no, really, like a stone. It slowly (SLOWLY) dissolves in your mouth. The taste is an acquired one and a couple of our travelers partook in the effort. I’ll let them regail you with the stories here (stay tuned to this channel!).

Dried Cheese; photo by Brian Miller

We finished our day in Punakha near the confluence of the Mo Chu and Po Chu rivers….tomorrow, if the weather holds, we’ll raft this stretch.

Have a wonderful day!

In Bhutan: Day 1

OK, let’s just get this out of the way: Bhutan is an amazing place in the world. I’ve visited multip0le times and made friends here. While the struggle is real to provide education and jobs to the population, few places address those needs so directly. Bringing students to this place has been some of my work for the past 16 years, and I’m lucky to have had willing travelers to come to a place few have even heard of.

Our first day in Bhutan began peacefully. We landed around 10:30AM and were picked up by my friend Namgay and Illuminating Tours. The welcome was wonderful, and we hopped on the small bus to our first stop at Kyichu Temple in Paro.

One of the oldest temples in Bhutan, constructed in the 7th century, the building is filled with statues of important teachers and leaders, as well as shrine rooms dedicated to the Buddha and Padmasambhava. Padmasambhava, or Guru Rinpoche, brought Buddhism to Bhutan (and to Tibet) and this location was one of a few that the Guru established in the region.

Spinning the Prayer wheels
Finding time to draw
Wandering the grounds at Kyichu
Flowers blooming all around the gardens

After Kyichu we ate lunch and made our way to Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan. On the way, we stopped for a hike at the Iron Bridge. Legend and history states that a Tibetan ironworker came to Bhutan and formed the iron links that made up the bridge in the 16th century. We walked around the area, headed up to the stupa on the hill.

Up the hill to the stupa at Iron Bridge
Iron Bridge over the Paro river

As we make our way around the Thimphu today and Punakha tomorrow, we’ll see how things unfold in terms of weather (hoping it holds for our rafting trip in 2 days), and hikes to temples in and around Punakha!

Mornings are Hard; Days are Wonderful

Waiting to head to Suvarnabhumi airport here at 3:33 AM, I think about really early mornings. For the past few days we’ve been moving at O Dark-30, and the shock of being awake is always a challenge. Still, we’re traveling across the globe, and time is relative.

For the past 2 (has it been 2?) days, we’ve been in Hong Kong and now Bangkok, finding ways to meet and engage.

In Hong Kong, we “Ubered” to the Ladies Night Market despite a 14:45 hr flight. Our drivers Chit and Wing Kin offered information about the night market (Mong Kok) and details about their lives in Hong Kong and Lantau. Their specific information made our night better!

Our group wandered the stalls, selecting various treasures and eating some tasty street food! As midnight rolled around, we went back to the hotel ( Regala Skycity) and immediately crashed.

Our 9:00 AM flight to Bangkok was uneventful, and we landed in the heat of the city. The Thai airport is beautiful and busy. The sights, sounds, smells, and sheer number of people are overwhelming with little sleep. Still, we pushed through, checked into the Great Residence Hotel and headed into the city.

The drive to the Chao Phraya river was eventful as Sanong taught us some Thai. He offered helpful information and after an hour in traffic we headed to the Golden Palace…as we walked to the entrance it, literally, closed in front of us. The gate was locked and we stood more than a little dumbfounded.

The temple complex sometimes closes unannounced, and that happened to us!

No worries, of course! We shifted gears and visited Wat Pho and the reclining Buddha.

Wat Pho is a quiet respite from the bustle of life. Many fewer people shuffled through the grounds as we walked into the many temples representign vrious aspects of historical Buddhism and individual buddhas in Thailand. In one building in particular, about 50 gold statues repesented the enlightenened teachers, all with very difference expressions on their faces from stern to laughing.

Throughout the complex, stupas representing different eras of contruction filled open plazas and were covered in small tiles of flowers and colorful designs.

Wat Pho

At Wat Pho, the the focus for many is the reclining Buddha. This representation of the Buddha is just before he died and statue is massive. As you take your shoes off at the entrance, a single file line of folks shuffle through the hall. The shock of this process was that they allowed photography in the space. It’s rare in sacred places in Asia to be able to photograph in a shrine room and I was intially taken by surprise…then, I saw people spending time looking and photographing, and it felt OK. So I snapped away.

Reclining Buddha

Our group was scattered around the Wat, and we eventually came back together to make our way by ferry across the river to Wat Arun, the Temple of the Dawn. The heat was getting to us, and lack of sleep, food, and heat crowded our brains. We managed to walk to the ferry at Tha Tien launch.

Boarding the Ferry to Wat Arun

Crossing the busy Chao Phraya is an adventure. Boats of various types are mototring up and down the river….our small ferry just had one job: cross the river. We managed it between massive boats and landed in just a few minutes at the other side.

Ferry ride Chao Phraya

Wat Arun is a huge stupa, covered in ceramic tiles from top to bottom. The current temple was expanded in the 19th century (originally constructed abou 400 years ago), and the size of the structure is hard to describe. Families and individuals were phtographing themselves in traditional dress and we watched the hundred of folks looking for the best spot to take a picture.

Photographing at Wat Arun
Wat Arun in the evening light

The weather was getting to us and we found our driver, Sanong, and headed back to our hotel, about 31 km away. Most of us crashed hard after a quick bite to eat, and prepared for our 3:45AM trip back to Suvarnabhumi Airport and our early AM flight to Bhutan!

More to come from students on the next post!

We’re Flying!

A 3:30 AM alarm is a shock to wake up to, and it’s all good. Our 5:45 AM flight to LAX was lightly attended, and once we made it to LAX, we walked to Terminal 7 to wait for our flight to Hong Kong. While a 4-hour wait is a long one, I’ve always been of the opinion that having too much time to wait is NOT a bad thing when traveling across the globe.

In terms of that travel, I’ve heard a lot about TSA in the past few weeks, AND the process was smooth, and the people were professional. I’m so impressed by this workforce working under challenging conditions to do their essential jobs…a shout out to TSA on this travel day!

Our group is no worse for wear, as you can see, and is prepared for the long day on the plane. Well, I should say as prepared as you can be considering a 16-hour flight. Still, it’s all good as we make the trek to Bhutan.

Our first stop, in Hong Kong, has us stuck with a 14-hour layover. We’re taking the opportunity on Saturday night to visit the Ladies Night Market (photos forthcoming), a market worth visiting. I’ll report on our overnight stay in the city, and at the Regala Skycity Hotel.

May you be happy, may you be well!

The Stress is Real

Preparing for international travel is a real challenge for those of us who lead students. The last minute checks for boarding passes, visa requirements, and etc can push one over the edge. Even with all of the preparations and planning, inevitably something goes awry.

Sitting in the middle of this gale, resisting the urge to run, I settle into problem-solving mode. Double-checking information, communicating with families, finding out ways to fix anything that arises, the moment can seem overwhelming.

The Purpose of the Travel

For those planning international trips, the facts are these: you cannot check too often on travel plans, etc. It may feel like you’re committing too much time to the situation, and the reality is that you are not. When you plan, like me, without the aid of companies, agencies, and other systems to help organize your travel, you will find that you can accomplish the task using lists, writing in journals, and talking to everyone involved.

Here, in the evening before the trip, you rely on what you’ve done before this moment. Your experience, your knowledge, your insights.

And so…we depart for Bhutan tomorrow morning, making stops in Hong Kong and Bangkok. We’ll find our way to the Ladies Night Market, to the Chao Phraya river, and ultimately, to land in Paro to experience life in the Land of the Thunder Dragon.

If you’re reading this blog, you’ll find posts on our journey including photos, information about places and people, as well as the unvarnished views of those who are traveling with me. Through it all, I hope, dear reader, you’ll find something of interest, something that captures your imagination, and maybe consider embarking on a journey to the other side of the world. I can promise you an experience unlike any other.

Just 75 Days Until Bhutan Travel!

Sometimes planning for an international trip with groups is a kind fo shell game trying to find the best flights for the best price. Some tools simplify the process, AND the facts are these: watching and waiting pays. Using your research skills does make a difference!

For our trip to Bhutan, I was able to grab very reasonable flights to and from Asia on United Airlines. Everyone has a favorite carrier, and United (and ANA) are the ones I have chosen. When I’ve encountered a problem, they have always been helpful. Always.

For our trip, I planned an evening in Hong Kong on our way east. We’ll land in Hong Kong around 7:30PM and then head to the Ladies Night Market for a wonderfuil experience. I’ve been to this market a few times, and it’s a great introduction to the city. Breaking up the trip to Bhutan will hopefully allow us to be rested by the tie we land in Paro!

We’ll head to Bangkok at a reasonable 9:00AM and arrive at 11:25AM. We’ll head to our hotel, get settled (briefly), and then go into the city for a visit to the temples on the Chao Phraya river. From there we’ll head back to our Hotel in teh evening, grab some food in Lat Krabang, and get ready for a VERY early AM flight to Bhutan (6:00AM!).

We arrive in Paro, Bhutan around 11:30AM (it’s a short flight and usually includes a brief stop in Kolkata, India). Once we land, we’ll be visiting a variety of temples, and sites. Our days in Bhutan are full and include travel across the country as far West as Bumtang/Jakar.

We’ll return to the U.S. on April 2nd on a long flight day. Watch this space for more detailed information about our trip and travel!

Travel Bans and International Travel in 2026

I am constantly shocked at the whole idea of travel bans on countries around the world, and the most recent bans being considered include Bhutan.

Of all of the countries in the entire world to ban, Bhutan is among the most absurd decisions made by any administration.

Bhutan represents the best of what this world has to offer in terms of how we can live our lives with care and conviction. That we can live in harmony with those around us, and that we are a part of this earth and as such must be the guardians of the planet in every possible way.

If you are reading this post, my advice is to make your voice heard request that the United States does not ban Bhutan from travel or exchange (or, frankly, any country).

For more information, please check these sights for information and clarity on the emerging topic: https://apple.news/A6o2MeXOsQw2eXx74xf2EIg

https://www.ghanaweb.com/GhanaHomePage/NewsArchive/BREAKING-Trump-administration-lists-Ghana-24-other-African-countries-for-possible-travel-ban-Report-1987869

https://www.cfr.org/article/guide-countries-trumps-2025-travel-ban-list