OK, let’s just get this out of the way: Bhutan is an amazing place in the world. I’ve visited multip0le times and made friends here. While the struggle is real to provide education and jobs to the population, few places address those needs so directly. Bringing students to this place has been some of my work for the past 16 years, and I’m lucky to have had willing travelers to come to a place few have even heard of.
Our first day in Bhutan began peacefully. We landed around 10:30AM and were picked up by my friend Namgay and Illuminating Tours. The welcome was wonderful, and we hopped on the small bus to our first stop at Kyichu Temple in Paro.
One of the oldest temples in Bhutan, constructed in the 7th century, the building is filled with statues of important teachers and leaders, as well as shrine rooms dedicated to the Buddha and Padmasambhava. Padmasambhava, or Guru Rinpoche, brought Buddhism to Bhutan (and to Tibet) and this location was one of a few that the Guru established in the region.
Spinning the Prayer wheels
Finding time to draw
Wandering the grounds at Kyichu
Flowers blooming all around the gardens
After Kyichu we ate lunch and made our way to Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan. On the way, we stopped for a hike at the Iron Bridge. Legend and history states that a Tibetan ironworker came to Bhutan and formed the iron links that made up the bridge in the 16th century. We walked around the area, headed up to the stupa on the hill.
Up the hill to the stupa at Iron Bridge
Iron Bridge over the Paro river
As we make our way around the Thimphu today and Punakha tomorrow, we’ll see how things unfold in terms of weather (hoping it holds for our rafting trip in 2 days), and hikes to temples in and around Punakha!
Waiting to head to Suvarnabhumi airport here at 3:33 AM, I think about really early mornings. For the past few days we’ve been moving at O Dark-30, and the shock of being awake is always a challenge. Still, we’re traveling across the globe, and time is relative.
For the past 2 (has it been 2?) days, we’ve been in Hong Kong and now Bangkok, finding ways to meet and engage.
In Hong Kong, we “Ubered” to the Ladies Night Market despite a 14:45 hr flight. Our drivers Chit and Wing Kin offered information about the night market (Mong Kok) and details about their lives in Hong Kong and Lantau. Their specific information made our night better!
Our group wandered the stalls, selecting various treasures and eating some tasty street food! As midnight rolled around, we went back to the hotel ( Regala Skycity) and immediately crashed.
Our 9:00 AM flight to Bangkok was uneventful, and we landed in the heat of the city. The Thai airport is beautiful and busy. The sights, sounds, smells, and sheer number of people are overwhelming with little sleep. Still, we pushed through, checked into the Great Residence Hotel and headed into the city.
The drive to the Chao Phraya river was eventful as Sanong taught us some Thai. He offered helpful information and after an hour in traffic we headed to the Golden Palace…as we walked to the entrance it, literally, closed in front of us. The gate was locked and we stood more than a little dumbfounded.
The temple complex sometimes closes unannounced, and that happened to us!
No worries, of course! We shifted gears and visited Wat Pho and the reclining Buddha.
Wat Pho is a quiet respite from the bustle of life. Many fewer people shuffled through the grounds as we walked into the many temples representign vrious aspects of historical Buddhism and individual buddhas in Thailand. In one building in particular, about 50 gold statues repesented the enlightenened teachers, all with very difference expressions on their faces from stern to laughing.
Throughout the complex, stupas representing different eras of contruction filled open plazas and were covered in small tiles of flowers and colorful designs.
Wat Pho
At Wat Pho, the the focus for many is the reclining Buddha. This representation of the Buddha is just before he died and statue is massive. As you take your shoes off at the entrance, a single file line of folks shuffle through the hall. The shock of this process was that they allowed photography in the space. It’s rare in sacred places in Asia to be able to photograph in a shrine room and I was intially taken by surprise…then, I saw people spending time looking and photographing, and it felt OK. So I snapped away.
Reclining Buddha
Our group was scattered around the Wat, and we eventually came back together to make our way by ferry across the river to Wat Arun, the Temple of the Dawn. The heat was getting to us, and lack of sleep, food, and heat crowded our brains. We managed to walk to the ferry at Tha Tien launch.
Boarding the Ferry to Wat Arun
Crossing the busy Chao Phraya is an adventure. Boats of various types are mototring up and down the river….our small ferry just had one job: cross the river. We managed it between massive boats and landed in just a few minutes at the other side.
Ferry ride Chao Phraya
Wat Arun is a huge stupa, covered in ceramic tiles from top to bottom. The current temple was expanded in the 19th century (originally constructed abou 400 years ago), and the size of the structure is hard to describe. Families and individuals were phtographing themselves in traditional dress and we watched the hundred of folks looking for the best spot to take a picture.
Photographing at Wat Arun
Wat Arun in the evening light
The weather was getting to us and we found our driver, Sanong, and headed back to our hotel, about 31 km away. Most of us crashed hard after a quick bite to eat, and prepared for our 3:45AM trip back to Suvarnabhumi Airport and our early AM flight to Bhutan!
A 3:30 AM alarm is a shock to wake up to, and it’s all good. Our 5:45 AM flight to LAX was lightly attended, and once we made it to LAX, we walked to Terminal 7 to wait for our flight to Hong Kong. While a 4-hour wait is a long one, I’ve always been of the opinion that having too much time to wait is NOT a bad thing when traveling across the globe.
In terms of that travel, I’ve heard a lot about TSA in the past few weeks, AND the process was smooth, and the people were professional. I’m so impressed by this workforce working under challenging conditions to do their essential jobs…a shout out to TSA on this travel day!
Our group is no worse for wear, as you can see, and is prepared for the long day on the plane. Well, I should say as prepared as you can be considering a 16-hour flight. Still, it’s all good as we make the trek to Bhutan.
Our first stop, in Hong Kong, has us stuck with a 14-hour layover. We’re taking the opportunity on Saturday night to visit the Ladies Night Market (photos forthcoming), a market worth visiting. I’ll report on our overnight stay in the city, and at the Regala Skycity Hotel.
Preparing for international travel is a real challenge for those of us who lead students. The last minute checks for boarding passes, visa requirements, and etc can push one over the edge. Even with all of the preparations and planning, inevitably something goes awry.
Sitting in the middle of this gale, resisting the urge to run, I settle into problem-solving mode. Double-checking information, communicating with families, finding out ways to fix anything that arises, the moment can seem overwhelming.
The Purpose of the Travel
For those planning international trips, the facts are these: you cannot check too often on travel plans, etc. It may feel like you’re committing too much time to the situation, and the reality is that you are not. When you plan, like me, without the aid of companies, agencies, and other systems to help organize your travel, you will find that you can accomplish the task using lists, writing in journals, and talking to everyone involved.
Here, in the evening before the trip, you rely on what you’ve done before this moment. Your experience, your knowledge, your insights.
And so…we depart for Bhutan tomorrow morning, making stops in Hong Kong and Bangkok. We’ll find our way to the Ladies Night Market, to the Chao Phraya river, and ultimately, to land in Paro to experience life in the Land of the Thunder Dragon.
If you’re reading this blog, you’ll find posts on our journey including photos, information about places and people, as well as the unvarnished views of those who are traveling with me. Through it all, I hope, dear reader, you’ll find something of interest, something that captures your imagination, and maybe consider embarking on a journey to the other side of the world. I can promise you an experience unlike any other.
Sometimes planning for an international trip with groups is a kind fo shell game trying to find the best flights for the best price. Some tools simplify the process, AND the facts are these: watching and waiting pays. Using your research skills does make a difference!
For our trip to Bhutan, I was able to grab very reasonable flights to and from Asia on United Airlines. Everyone has a favorite carrier, and United (and ANA) are the ones I have chosen. When I’ve encountered a problem, they have always been helpful. Always.
For our trip, I planned an evening in Hong Kong on our way east. We’ll land in Hong Kong around 7:30PM and then head to the Ladies Night Market for a wonderfuil experience. I’ve been to this market a few times, and it’s a great introduction to the city. Breaking up the trip to Bhutan will hopefully allow us to be rested by the tie we land in Paro!
We’ll head to Bangkok at a reasonable 9:00AM and arrive at 11:25AM. We’ll head to our hotel, get settled (briefly), and then go into the city for a visit to the temples on the Chao Phraya river. From there we’ll head back to our Hotel in teh evening, grab some food in Lat Krabang, and get ready for a VERY early AM flight to Bhutan (6:00AM!).
We arrive in Paro, Bhutan around 11:30AM (it’s a short flight and usually includes a brief stop in Kolkata, India). Once we land, we’ll be visiting a variety of temples, and sites. Our days in Bhutan are full and include travel across the country as far West as Bumtang/Jakar.
We’ll return to the U.S. on April 2nd on a long flight day. Watch this space for more detailed information about our trip and travel!
I am constantly shocked at the whole idea of travel bans on countries around the world, and the most recent bans being considered include Bhutan.
Of all of the countries in the entire world to ban, Bhutan is among the most absurd decisions made by any administration.
Bhutan represents the best of what this world has to offer in terms of how we can live our lives with care and conviction. That we can live in harmony with those around us, and that we are a part of this earth and as such must be the guardians of the planet in every possible way.
If you are reading this post, my advice is to make your voice heard request that the United States does not ban Bhutan from travel or exchange (or, frankly, any country).
While we’re a year away from our travels, it’s not too early to prepare for the trip. We will fly from Albuquerque to LA and then on to Bangkok. Our adventure begins, as it always does in Albuquerque, at a ridiculously early flight. Our time on planes will be almost 18 hours and about 24 hours of travel to Thailand. If you have never flown to Asia, you should know that it is a long travel day.
Once in Thailand, we’ll spend just two nights in the city and spend most of our time on the Chao Phraya river and in the temples that line its banks. The temperature will seem hot to us for March and we’ll dress accordingly. After some street food in Lat Krabang, we’ll take another early morning flight to Bhutan (we depart around 5:00AM!) for the short flight into Paro. From there, we’ll move across the country, west to east, stopping along the way in Thimphu, Punakha, Trongsa, Jakar, and back again. Along the way, we’ll visit temples, schools, and Dzongs, and hike on beautiful trails into the forests of pine. Our final hike will be to the famous Tiger’s Nest, a 3-hour hike up to the temple.
We return to Albuquerque through Bangkok in a single day, making the adventure that much more exciting (or exhausting, depending on your perspective). Below is a brief itinerary; a more detailed one will be forthcoming in the next few weeks. All locations in Bhutan are subject to change due to weather or other conditions.
Day 1: AM Flight to LAX, LAX to Hong Kong, overnight in Hong Kong March 21st; travel to BKK, arrive around noon on March 22nd STAY: Great Residence Hotel, 1 night Day 2: Downtown Bangkok, Chao Phraya River, Temples, evening street food in Lat Krabang Day 3: AM Flight to Bhutan – Arrive Paro early afternoon. National Museum, Paro Dzong drive to Thimphu, evening in Thimphu. Day 4: Thimphu to Punakha: Chimi Lhakhang, a monastery dedicated to Lama Drukpa Kuenley (the Divine Madman), Punakha Dzong. Day 5: Punakha to Trongsa: stops along the road (could be a long day), stay in Yangkill. First visit to Trongsa Middle School. Day 6: Trongsa Dzong, Trongsa National Museum; travel to Bumthang, Jakar Day 7: Tang Valley; Orgyen Choling House (story of Pema Lingpa) Day 8: Tang Valley to Punakha: Evening hike to cremation grounds. Day 9: Punakha to Paro: hike to Tango University. A visit to see the Takin! Evening in Paro. Day 10: Hike to the Tiger’s Nest Day 11/12: Return to Bangkok and the US
We generally fly United / ANA Airlines for this trip. Costs for travel are generally around $1600 for flights to Bangkok and back (although, as I write this, flights are very inexpensive, around $950). Our flight into Bhutan is roughly $800RT (prices can and do change for this ticket; we’ll lock in all costs about six months before travel).
Costs in Thailand are relatively inexpensive, no more than about $200 in total. In Bhutan, we’ll have a daily rate of around $300 per day (subject to change). These costs are all-inclusive in terms of transportation, food, and housing.
Total Costs for the trip will be between $4200 and $5000 depending on flights (that’s our big unknown). In past years, the least expensive trip was $3600 and the most expensive was $4800. Should things change dramatically, I will alert you in plenty of time.
All money is collected in-house, and refunds are granted in full up until we purchase flights and book our Bhutan travel. Funds are electronically transferred to Bhutan in full 60 days before departure.
You can make payments to the school in any amount you like up to December 1st. Once all funds are collected, I’ll book all plane tickets. We offer trip insurance through Allianz. The insurance is optional. Medical coverage and evacuation insurance for the trip are provided by the school for all student travelers.
Finally, all travelers are required to get several vaccines for this trip. A list will be provided at our first official meeting in April. All travelers must provide proof of vaccination prior to departure. We use New Mexico Travel Health Services for vaccinations, and you can get your vaccinations elsewhere.
To say that travel to Bhutan is an adventure is an understatement. I hope you will join us on this trip to the Land of the Thunder Dragon!
After two years of trips to Japan, we’re returning to Bhutan in March 2026. This trip will be exclusive to Thailand and Bhutan, allowingng us to spend more time in both places and to have an opportunity to see more places and visit with more people in Bhutan.
Following my previous trips to Bhutan, we will fly into Bangkok. For a couple of days, we will visit Bangkok and the temples along the Chao Phraya River. Our goal is to understand the uniqueness of Thai culture and the influences of Hinduism and Buddhism on Thai history. In addition, we’ll investigate the colonial history of the city which will allow us to gain a rich background in the ways modern Thailand developed.
Street Food in Lat Krabang
Our visits in Bangkok will include Temple or Wat Arun, Wat Pho (that houses the reclining buddha), Wat Phra Kaew (Emerald Buddha), and a few other sites in walking distance to those temples.
In addition, we will visit Chinatown, street food vendors in Lat Krabang, and hang out at the hotel pool after a day in the 90 degree heat!
We’ll travel to Bhutan on an early AM flight to Paro on Bhutan Airlines, landing around 11:00AM and beginning our journey through the country. We will be met by my friend Namgay Tsangkhap, and he will lead us to Thimphu and the Buddha temple in the hills above the city.
The Tiger’s Nest near Paro, Bhutan
After a night in Thimphu, we’ll begin our eastern trek across Bhutan on the only road that crosses the country. Along the way, we’ll venture to Punakha, Wangdue Phodrang, Trongsa, and eventually to Jakar/Bumtang.
Along the way, you’ll hike forested trails, hear from monks about their lives, and sample local food. You’ll get a chance to meditate in ancient temples and reflect on what it must be like to live in the land of the Thunder Dragon. In addition to these experiences, we will visit the Tsangkhap school and provide school supplies for students. We’ll play soccer, basketball, and maybe bring some frisbees and spend a little time getting to know students in Bhutan.
Hiking along the Mo Chu
Stay tuned here for more information about travel to Bhutan and details about the itinerary, costs, and additional information.
I sometimes wonder if my expectations of travel and experience get in the way of just being with the experience? As I reflect on my trip to Japan, I noticed a few things that have stayed with me.
First, throughout my days there I felt at ease by day 3. The drugged feeling I had coming from the U.S. faded and I was able to enjoy spending time doing nothing. When I look back, it was day 3 that I shifted expectations and started to go woith the flow of the moment rather than trying to build some kind of experience from my itinerary or prior decisions on where to go and what to do. Instead, I let things happen. Once I settled into the trip, I just wandered around.
INnmy wandering what I found was myself. I found out more about who I was than anythign else and, as someone has said in some book, poem, or text, I met myself in Tokyo. It was a beautiful kind of letting go.
The one thing that does stand out more than two weeks after my visit was the exhibtion at the Tokyo Museum of Western Art called Does the Future Sleep Here? That exhibition caught me completely by surprise and the artwork and artists statements brought me to a different place in my heart and mind. I found something new AND something in myself. Maybe THAT is the whole point of travel: to be transformed by the places and people we visit, and then carry that experience with us.
I was particulalry struck by Nakabayashi Tadayoshi and his etchings on display at the beginning of the exhibition. His work is fantastical and detailed. The etchings are remarkable in both their detail and depth. They feel three-dimensional and almost pop off of the cream toned paper that he uses.
Isimsiz
As the exhibit unfolded, it openly questioned the whole purpose of an art exhibition and offered the idea that a static display of art takes the art out of the context of the artist, making it isloated and missing a sense of humanity and connection.
I left with a wonderful sense of fulfillment and a slightly lighter step as I walked back into the light rain that permeated my days in Tokyo. I walked back toward Asakusa and followed some narrow roads and alleyways through the neighborhoods that fill this part of the city. As I walked, i was gaining a real sense of the expansiveness of the city and the distances between the various parts of Tokyo. I could feel the differences between the parts and something of the nature of life in various locations. Away from the bustle of a tourist attraction, families went back and forth to school, work, restaurants, and the tasks of daily life. The thing that always strikes me is the deep quiet of the city walking through these streets. One block away from a main street and things are much much slower.
Experientially, I learned more Japanese than I learned in my work at home and I still struggle to initiate conversations. I do know the language will come and I do know that as I gain confidence, that change will unlock more of what I’m looking for in Japan.
I’m waxing philosophical, so I’ll bring this all to a close with some photos of this recent visit. Looking forward to my next visit in June 2025. In the meantime,
When I decided to visit Tokyo, I planned for chilly weather AND I did not plan for multiple days of rain and clouds. The lack of unfiltered sunlight was not in my original plan. This weather pattern that covered much of the Kanto plain during my time in Japan made me alter most of my plans. For example, I had planned to hike a series of trails in Chiba and near Kamakura. When I traveled to the trailheads, the trails were very challenging to hike. Rain made some of these trails impassible. In one case, I walked upstairs to the beginning of a trail only to find the path of a slick, mud-filled trek. After a few minutes and soaking wet shoes, I turned around, gingerly descending to solid ground.
In the face of these altered weather conditions, I fought to desire to head indoors and, for the most part, traveled all over the city. I visited so many parts of the city I had never seen and spent time just seeing the built environment of Tokyo. While I took many photographs, none of them really captured anything new or unique. Many are just quick shots amid a light rain.
It’s easy to be disappointed in these circumstances and I worked through the challenges to find something in the city. These photographs capture some of what I saw. As always, I wish I had more time and had visited more places. AT the same time, I did what I could do with the time I had available.
In Akihabara, the ubiquitous trinket stores dedicated to anime and manga.
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