An Evening in Osaka

Our group was recovering from feeling ill, and folks didn’t want to miss Osaka. By late afternoon, we gathered and decidede ot take the Shinkansen to Osaka and hit the Castle and the Aquarium, finishing the night with Okonomiyaki, a local dish.

Planning a trip to Osaka requires careful mapping of the city. Here’s why: it can take an hour or more to go from place to place. We did some impromptu planning and then hit the train station late…we wouldn’t realize our mistake until we were sprinting through the train station to get on the LAST train…and then missing it.

Nevertheless, our trip into the city started at Osaka Castle, an impressive reconstruction of the Castle by Tokugawa Ieyasu and his son in the 17th century. The grounds are massive and to do this visit right it takes hours; we did it in a little less time to make our way to the Aquarium across town.

The Osaka Aquarium is a marvel, and students loved visiting this massive facility. After seeing the fishes, we grabbed Okonomiyaki at Chibo in the heart of the city. I cannot say enough about how unique and wonderful this dish is…We ate our fill and then quickly realized that we needed to GO!

The excitement that builds when you start to recognize that in minutes, you might not be able to make it to the 40km trip to Kyoto rushes through your body. Combine that a a trip leader and, damn, things get weird.

We hopped on the train to Kyoto at the last minute, and I wondered if we would make it in time to get back to our houses? We arrived at Kyoto Station, headed to the Karasuma line which felt like a MILE away from the JR lines we just left. We walked/ran with purpose and literally jumped on the train to Karasuma Oike to change trains….WOULD WE MAKE IT???

No.

We missed the last train, and the station staff shooed us out of the station (saying shoo!), and we headed up the stairs, recognizing the long walk home.

The night was pleasant, and some of us were tired from a short/long day of walking. As we walked, some of us photographed night scenes as this city was still wide awake at 12:20 AM. We headed up the long hill to the houses. Crashed in bed, and smiled at a full day and an exciting end!

(Photos posted tomorrow!)

Bringing it All Together Tonight

Karaoke is one of the most popular activities to do in Japan and it has been a tradition to do some karaoke with students in an evening.

On this day, we tried finding a good spot to lay down the tunes and sing the songs. Sutherland and I talked to a couple of places, and we decided on Rainbow Karaoke. It was the perfect choice in downtown Kyoto. It HELPS to know some Japanese to make the transaction go smoothly and ensure that your experience is exactly what you planned. Student IDs help and if you’re under 18 you get a significant discount.

With our group of 16, we were given the “Party Room” and piled in, with unlimited soft drinks and ice cream. We booked the room for 3 hours and used every single minute of that time. Everyone got into the act, and as you can see from the photos, it was both hilarious and about as much fun as you can have as a group. I’ll let the photos speak for themselves!

In and Around Kyoto

By far, Kyoto is one of my favorite cities in the world for the care and consideration this city takes in preseving its past and reclaiming its future. The city is modern in every sense of word and retains the powerful qualities of a rich and deeply influential past.

Our visit to the city is all about being a part of daily life while we are here and so that means living in houses, preparing food in a kitchen, shopping at groceries stores, and,. as I’ve mentioned before, having students choose their own adventures. This group was up to the challenge and began our first day by seeking out places and experiences that called to them.

Our first day took in Nijo Castle, the home to shoguns from the early Tokugawa period. Built as a residence for the Tokugawa family, the building and grounds are elaborate. On this day, rain from a tropical storm descended on us. We persevered and wandered the grounds and the castle. The wood structure, silk paintings, and the history of the place offers a unique insight into the lives of the upper class and the structure of their daily lives.

From the castle, we headed to lunch at Nishki and Shinobiya Markets. The street food is good, and we hit it just in time to experience the moment. Crowds, of course, greeted us, and we were unfazed by the masses as we made our choices.

The afternoon was given over to individual pursuits, and by evening, we settled into a heavy rain storm with high winds and downed trees.

The following AM started with drizzle, and the intrepid group walked with us to the Path of Philosophy, Gingaku-ji Temple, and then on to Kinkaku-ji. On our walk to the temple, we stop along the way and read poems from Basho’s Narrow Road to the Interior. Then, after getting used to the sound and meter of the poems, each student composed one to read about this moment. Each one offered a fascinating insight into where they were. Here are a few examples from student work:

Meditative thoughts

Visions of a peaceful life,

Fulfillment in the now

_______________________________

Every step I take

has been taken before me

I walk a new path

___________________________

Wind rustling leaves

Crunching gravel on our feet

Writing of haiku

At the end of these two days, we had each walked about 12 miles each day, and our bodies felt the need for rest. A few of us came down with an odd stomach/head cold illness and rested.

More stories to come!

May you be happy, may you be well.

By Shinkansen into Kyoto

If you have never taken the Shinkansen in Japan, it is a technological marvel. As a traveler, the train is comfortable, quiet, and among the most pleasant ways to go from place to place in Japan. As I said when I first traveled on one of these trains, it’s like you’re living in the future. Of course, that’s not hard to imagine coming from the United States, where rail travel is stuck in the 1930s. The rail infrastructure in the U.S. pales by comparison.

Today, you can grab tickets for these trains at a kiosk; for our group, I had to go to the JR East office at Shinagawa station to purchase the group tickets… It’s much easier to manage a group of 16 through the office rather than the ticket machine. Then navigating the process of getting to the train is a bit of a chore as you scan an IC card pass or phone pass AND then put the ticket into the machine…Then, retrieve it from the machine at the end. A few members of our group lost their tickets in the machine, and an attendant had to retrieve them from the bowels of the beast. Fun!

Once on the platform, we waiting for the train. Once it arrives you’ve got 3 minutes to board and then is goes…that may sound like plenty of time, AND it’s a little stressful making sure everyone gets on before the bells start ringing! Of course, we all made it and headed south for the 2 hour ride to Kyoto Station.

After arrival, we grabbed some food and then made our way to the houses in Higashiyama. I cannot say strongly enough how wonderful these places are….four houses surrounding a small courtyard. The space alone was worth the price of adventure, and many of us made food in the kitchens.

On the following day, we faced constant rain as a tropical storm descended on Kyoto. We made the best of it, heading to Nijo Castle and the home of the Shoguns. We walked the halls of the building. The grounds are impressive, and because of the rain, we just stayed inside. We then headed into the city to the Nishiki Market for some street food. We fanned out across the city after that and ended up eating together at Sushiro, a conveyor belt sushi place in Gion. Some of us did a night hike, some walked through a series of temples, and others made their way back to the houses. By late evening, we were all ensconced in our beds, ready for the Path of Philosophy tomorrow!

This trip has been a whirlwind that is working as designed; a structured morning activity and an afternoon choose your own adventure approach. So far, things are going very well!

May you be happy, may you be well!

Tokyo – Days 4 / 5

The trips I lead are not technically tourist trips or what people might refer to as tours. They are about finding your way around and choosing your own path. Students have time to explore the city and enjoy their own adventures after some AM planned activities. The goal here is to help students become members of the world community, engaging in activities that enhance their understanding of the communities we are in.

On these days, we did a couple of activities…the main one was a trip to Kamakura and Enoshima. we traveled the hour train ride to this coastal town and then played on the beach, walking the stairs around the island and finding our way around the area.

Our first stop in Kamakura included my favorite ramen spot, now renamed Takasuru. It was as great as I expected. Many of us ate there and enjoyed the kindness of the new owners.

From there, we walked to the Daibatsu, the bronze Buddha perched on a platform that survived a tsunami in the 13th century. I’m always struck by the remarkable nature of this place. Situated in the hills that dot the landscape of this place, the buddha sits above the town, as if watching over the village.

Once we finished our visit, we walked the 800 meters to Hasedera Temple. The caves, shrines, and temples are remarkable, and the statue of Kannon in the shrine room is impressive, built into the side of the hill.

We left Kamakura for Enoshima, and students chose their adventure. A small group walked the stairs across the island while another played on the beach. After a brief trip into the water, they played hacky sack and were joined by some local folks.

By the end of this long day, most of us had walked 15 – 20 miles and were exhausted once we arrived at the hotel. We crashed and prepared for tomorrow.

On our last day in Tokyo, the group wanted complete freedom, and I let them find their way. Some went to a flea market, some to Odaiba, some looking for camera equipment, and others stayed close to the hotel. Everyone went their own way, and I was happy to accommodate their interests.

Now, it’s off to Kyoto, our houses in Higashiyama, and more wandering!

May you be happy, may you be well!

Wandering Around Tokyo – Day 2 / 3

This trip, unlike most high school trips, is more of an adventure and less of a tour. In fact, my whole goal for this trip is to avoid the “T” word entirely and give students the power to explore the world. So, beginning with our walks through Asakasa and Ueno, we found ourselves wandering past shops, homes, temples, and shrines. One of the things I love to do with students is to walk through neighborhoods in the city. On this day, people were biking to work, walking their children to school, buying groceries, and doing the parts of daily living that make life manageable and sometimes wonderful.

We began our morning in the shadow of the Skytree Tower, then walking the 1.6KM to Asakusa and Senso-ji. I send students on a scavanger hunt to find the kitsune on the temple/shrine grounds. From there we walked to Ueno, passing through Kappabashi and the many shops with knives, kitchwarre for restaurants, and ceramic shops.

From there we made our way into Ueno Park and headed to the Tokyo Museum of Western Art. After a couple fo hours of visiting the museum, we spread out across the area. Some went into the markets below the bridges filled with speeding cars. Some ventured further afield into other parts of the city, and some of us made the long walk back to the Sumida River to walk the trails that line the waterway.

Through it all, this early interduction to Tokyo and Japan gave students some confidence in navigating the city on their own.

Today, we had a late start, and then grabbed a train to Shibuya. We put a student in charge of navigating the train system, and off we go! We hit Shibuya Crossing, then split up for lunch, finding Omoirice, Korena BBQ, and everything in between. Tower Records was a huge hit, and after lunch, we walked through the Meiji Shrine.

After those antics, I unleashed the students on Takeshita Street in the heart of Harajuku. The crowds were not at all what I;’ve seen in the past, and they dropped into places along this small avenue.

From there we split up; one group stayed in the Shibuya area, another went to the Nintendo Store, and a third traveled to Iyota the Stationary Store mecca in Ginza.

After dinner, we againh fanned out and finally, around 10:00PM made our various paths back to the hotel.

I don’t want to jinx it, and, right now, this trip is humming along nicely. Tomorrow we travel to Kamakura and Enoshima. Can’t wait for the group to see the Daibatsu, Hasedera Temple and climb the stairs at Enoshima. If you’re eondering. our mileage is starting to add up, as most of us are hitting 15 – 20 miles of walking each day. Like I said, Tokyo is a walking city, and sometimes the BEST way to see the world is on our feet!

May you be happy, may you be well.

Japan 2026 – Day One in Asakusa

From our home base in Albuquerque to our new spot in Asakusa, we’ve traveled across the globe to experience Japana nd Japanese culture in all its glory. As you can imagine, the flight across the Pacific Ocean is a long one…on this day, exactly 11:50 hrs to land in Haneda International Airport. The flight was uneventful (no wifi on this one), and the food plentiful. United Airlines seems to have upped the ante in terms of offering food for travelers.

We made it through the long flight to land and get acquainted with Japan. The experience of a new place combined with jet lag is a powerful, mind-numbing force. Navigating the crowds of humans to make our way across Tokyo to Asakusa is a challenge. After $$ was exchanged, hotspots purchased, we hopped on the Keikyu Line to Asakusa and our hotel. We’re staying across from the Skytree Tower and it’s presence is a powerful one looming over the streets in this area (technically Sumida City).

Our hotel check-in was efficient, and I’d definitely recommend this spot to fellow travelers looking for a reasonable price for rooms (LiveMax Asakusa Skyfront).

The Skytree Tower looming over the area

After a shower, we all headed out into the evening, walking the 20 minutes across the Sumida River to Asakusa. The weather was warm, and we fanned out to find ramen, Susi, and every other kind of food in this socially charged spot. The evening came to a quick close as we all made it back to the Hotel by 10 PM and everyone settled into our firt night in Japan.

The Sumida River near Asakusa

Today, we’ll be walking all around Asakusa and Ueno, hitting some popular spots and some hidden gems. We’ll spend some time at Senso-ji Temple complex, walk through the back streets to find ceramics, small stationary shops, and a food market hidden under a bridge near the Yamanote Station in Ueno. We’re planning to visit a couple of museums, and then the students will have the area to thmeselves as they wander this part of Tokyo.

The day will be full, our eyes will be open, and the weather looks as good as it gets in Tokyo in the summer!

May you be happy, may you be well!

The Long Road Home

Traveling back to the U.S. after weeks in Asia is a physical challenge. The long flights, the cramped seating, the limited physical space, all of this adds up to relatively minor struggles on the way home.

For our group, we woke on the last day with a casual morning planning for a quick 15 minute ride to the airport. Our flight from Paro heads to Bangkok via a stop in Kolkata, and the four-hour flight including the stop in Kolkata is plesant enough given what we faced on the following day.

Flying Bhutan Airlines is a gentle experience in terms of the ease of boarding, the kindness of the staff, and the attentiveness to passenger needs. You get plenty of food and drinks on these flights, and it gives you time to process the fact that you’re leaving Bhutan for another world.

One of the two meals served on this flight from Paro to Bangkok

If you’re traveling from Bhutan TO the U.S., it’s typically a day layover in Bangkok and then a flight the following day to the U.S. When we landed in Bangkok, about 4:00PM local time, we grabbed our schedule van to the The Great Residence Hotel and planned a visit to a market that evening.

Nancy found a markey close to our hotel (about a 10 minute walk) and we made our way in the heat of the evening to the Suvarnabhumi Market on Lat Kranbang Avenue. By the time we arrived, we were soaked, and eager to find some food and other items of interest. The chocies were extensive, from fried chicken to salmon sashimi to mango rice.

Flowers are everywhere in Bangkok
Walking to the Market

After we had our fill of sashimi, chicken wings, and fruit, we wandered back to the hotel for our final night in Asia, feeling all the feels of the end of a trip. Back at the hotel, we were seranaded by local musicians playing a variety of pop hits.

The musicians playing “She’s the One” by World Party

The following day, our flight departed Bangkok at about 3:00 PM, and we were warned to get to the airport with about three hours to spare. The advice was accurate as we entered the airport in this situation:

The crowds at Suvarnabhumi Airport

In the largest U.S. airports, you’ll typically see 6 to 10 airlines in the departure hall. Here, there are more than 30 different airlines flying all over the world. The United desks only have 3 kiosks compared to Albuquerque’s tiny airport of 8…the contrast is fascinating and you feel like the U.S. is just one of hundreds of nations in this departure hall. It’s an amazing experience to realize we are just one of many.

We boarded the flight with no hassles and prepared for the long trip home. We started in Bangkok at about 3:30PM and arrived in LA the same day at 7:30PM…the wonders of time travel!

We’re waaayyy far from home in Bangkok!
Not even 1/2 way home or 1/2 way across the Pacific with 6:33 hrs left to travel

We made it to Albuquerque at about 12:20AM and the group split into it’s various subgroups as we bolted for home. WIthin minutes of arrival, we were all on our way to various homes and houses, escaping the tight knit community we created on these 14 days.

Of the many trips I’ve taken to Bhutan, none have been as connected and lovely as this one. The group was in tune,m the vibe was real, and we bonded by the end with so many inside jokes and secret handshakes. Personally, I was worried before our depature and I needn’t have been. These people from various backgrounds and perspectives were a joy to travel with. We explored, adventured, and rested together. What else can you say about a magical journey to the Land of the Thunder Dragon?

Bhutan Finals Days: Joy is sometimes a choice…

When you’re in Bhutan, joy comes easily and often. The joy of a cup of “milk tea” poured as you say “thank you”; waking up to clear skies and views of the Himalayas; watching dancers at the Paro Tsechu express the story of Milarepa. All of these things illicit joy and wonder in moments across time and space in Bhutan.

On these final days of our trip in the country, we had so many experiences and moments of wonder, that it’s hard to fit into this blog post. Let’s start with our trip to Paro from the Phobjikha Valley. If you haven’t ridden on the roads that cross Bhutan, you don’t realize that distance is relative in terms of time and space. 100 KM trip in my home state of New Mexico, it would take about an hour. In Bhutan, that same distance takes hours, stops, and photo opportunities. The pace is slow (deliberately so), and in many ways a kind of beautiful adventure of what’s around the next bend in the road.

Around a corner, the Himalayas
Stop….photo by Maxine

The road, today, led us into Paro, and we made our way to the Tsechu, a religious festival. The Tsechu lasted for about a week, and we visited on the second day of the celebrations. On this day, the afternoon session told the story of Milarepa and the Hunter. The story is a song sung between Milarepa, a Buddhist monk, and a hunter Chirawa Gönpo Dorje. The dance between the two includes animals and the dancers help the hunter have a change of heart.

Later the in day, we headed to our hotel, and rested for our final hike to Taktsang (the Tiger’s Nest).

Our entire trip, it seems, led us to this hike to a temple perched on the side of a mountain, framed by rock and rhododendrons. The day began early as we attempted to beat the crowds making a pilgramage. We started the hike on a well-traveled trail through the forests that drape the mountains in this area. Mixed with pines and flowering bushes, the way is beautiful (if crowded) as we wound our way up to about 11,000 feet above the valley floor.

Looking up at the Temple from the Cafe

Each member of our group walked at our own pace with everyone making it to the Cafe within an hour. In reality, our pace was fast, and within about 1:45 hr were at the temple itself. To say this hike and this site is spectacular is understating it. The drama of walking up to the temple a visiting each of the shrine rooms is magical. You have aa sense of accomplishment, knowing that your effort paid off in an incredible way.

Overlooking the Tiger’s Nest…photo by Nancy

Our return to the valley floor was fast (around 45 minutes), and we headed from the hike into Paro town to find personal treasures to take home. We started it off in Namgay’s favorite new sopt, Brioche Cafe. We snacked on cakes, coffee and tea.

A cool spot in Paro

Our afternoon ended with traditional hot stone baths and tea. The day was just about perfect, and by the time we made it back to the hotel on this final night, we were tired and deeply satisfied with everything we accomplished.

Hot, fire-heated stone dropped into the wooden tub behind the slats; Wormwood leaves placed in the hot water…photo by Nancy

Of course, it’s hard to let go of Bhutan and Bhutan doesn’t really let go of you. Still, as this portion of the trip came to a close, we all talked about how this experience shaped us. Honestly, I cannot think of a better way to spend time with folks over a Spring Break.

Bhutan Days 6 & 7

Our travels to the eastern part of Bhutan was a long day. The roads in Bhutan are generally good AND the countours around the mountains take hours even though distances are short. Combine that situation with travel in vehicles no more than 35 – 40 miles per hour, and the process of travel from place to place is much longer than one might expect.

At the same time, our travel allows for a more nuanced approach, giving us time to stop for tea, photograph, and talk to people along the way. This very intentional approach to seeing a place makes for a much more considerate experience.

SO, we made our way across the country. Once in CHamkar – BUmthag, we settled into our residence for a couple of days, and then began our day in the pouring rain.

Jambay Lhakhang, Chamkar, Bhutan

Our first temple was among the oldest temples imn Bhutan, Jambay Lhakhang. Build in the 600s, this temple’s interior shrine room is filled with statues of Padmasambhava and is 8 emanations. In addition, the space includes relics and ancient objects referencing Buddhism deep past in this region. Some folks refer to the Bumthang Valley as the cultural heart of Bhuddhism in Bhutan. Everyone from Pema Lingpa, Longchenpa, and Padmasambhava visited this place, l;eaving a mark on the culture and the landscape.

Max shopping outside Jambay

On a typicl day here in Bumthang, we would have walked the short distance to each of the temple along a dirt path to Kurjey Lhakhang, the location of the cave where Padmasambhava meditated more than 1400 years ago. Today, we took the bus to the temple and visited the shrine room and saw the cave that Padmasambhava sat in. If you ever wanted to visit one of the holiest, most sacred Buddhist shrines in the world, this one is it. The cave is distinctive in that according to legend, Padmasambhava left his mark in the wall of the cave. We sat for a while in this shrine room as Tenzin told us the story of Padmasambhava and his journey to Bhutan.

From Kurje Lhakhang, we made our way to Pema Lingpa’s temple, Tamzhing Lhakhang, across the river. Here we saw a group of people from Vietnam reciting the 100 Syllable Mantra. The temple was alive with sound, and we visted the shrine room, and saw the paintings on the wall placed there in teh 15th century.

Padmasambhava at Tamzhing Lhakhang

From there we headed to a local farm house for lunch to taste local food and learn aboiut how it was made. The food, by far, was among the best we sampled in Bhutan.

Preparing food in Bumthang

After the farmhouse we headed back to the Hotel and then into town. Tomorrow, our journey takes us to Phobijikha Valley and a hike through the valley and a visit to the Black Necked Crane research facility.