I Don’t Want to go to (Enoshima)

March 26, 2024 ~ tgentryfunk ~ Leave a comment

Sung to the tune of Elvis Costello and the Attractions “I Don’t Want to Go to (Chelsea)”.

So, fellow humans, I’ve traveled to Enoshima so you don’t have to. Yes, Endoshima is an island linked to the mainland by a footbridge. Yes, many folks have traveled to the island and yes, there is a shrine to the poet Basho, on the far side of the island. Finally, you could climb up to the Enoshima “Candle” and look out over the ocean (and in good weather see Mt. Fuji). All of the above is true. The question I have: is it worth it. My humble response is no.

While you will find many places in Japan filled with tourist shops and restaurants, Enoshima seems particularly prone to these kinds of places. Absolutely nothing wrong with folks plying their trade and the visit didn’t have the payoff in terms of historical and cultural significance. For example, compared to an island like Miyajima near HIroshima, you’ll find less there, there.

Headed through the tourist area to get to the stairs to the top of the island

Combine the above information with the fact you will climb, climb, climb to the top on a significant number of stairs…maybe not Fujimi Inari level stairs, but close, and your work doesn’t necessarily match the experience. You could purchase escalator tickets (!!) to make your journey a bit less challenging, and you wouldn’t get the payoff of walking up 42 flights of stairs for the KMs you’re walking. I’m not really complaining, just a little frustrated that in the few hours I have left in Japan, I really want to spend my time more wisely. If you’ve got lots of time in Japan then Enoshima might be worth the adventure.

The Basho shrine…his poem is carved into the stone…

Without doubt

Flowerlike sea spray is

Spring of the bay

Despite all of that, the real payoff for this day was my visit to Kamakura. First and foremost, I absolutely love this place. I’ve now been all over the town and have felt like so many possibilities for both contemplation and adventure are in this place. Combined with the wonderful people I met, I haven’t found many places that equal the wonder of this place.

Hoping off the train at Kamakura, you’re presented immediately with two choices: left off the train leads you to a street filled with more common tourist opportunities like a cafe where you can hold owls or the ubiquitous ramen shops. To the left, you’ll walk into the town that is dramatically more quiet with shops filled with locally crafted art, jewelry, and food. My favorite spot is The Ramen Shop, a family-owned business that serves some wonderful Sio ramen broth. Purchase your ticket, have a seat at the bar (about 10 seats), and enjoy the Japanese jazz music and the wonderful ramen.

Instead of taking a bus or train close to the main attraction, the Daibatsu, I have chosen to walk from town to the sites. along the way, you’ll run into a variety of stores and restaurants. If you’re on the right side of the road, you’ll find Modernato Coffee Shop. Stop in and have some hand-crafted coffee (it takes a while) and a dessert. Sit at a window seat and just hang.

The Daibatsu is the star of this show and even if it’s crowded, you’ll be inspired by the view. Constructed in the 13th century, the building that once surrounded it is now gone…as legend states, destroyed by a tsunami, the bronze sculpture and pedestal are the only remaining structures. Reconstruction of the building happened soon after and that too fell to a fire in a civil conflict in the area. Restoration began again in the late 18th century and then later in the 20th. regardless of the history, you’ll find a remarkable bronze Buddha. As many times as I’ve visited this spot, the reveal of the Buddha as you walk along the path is magical. If you’ve read this far and you’d like to visit, walk slowly….turn the corner, and allow the vista to unfold. It’s amazing.

The Daibatsu…I’m able to grab this shot despite the number of visitors….I’m a bit taller than most folks.

Not far from the Daibatsu is the Hasedera shrine and temple complex. The ancient caves are worth the crawl and the place holds a gold-gilt Kannon sculpture in the main shrine room. The dim light of the room combined with the presence of the statue was as peaceful a place as I’ve ever found, and I stayed in this moment for as long as I could, basking in the warm glow of the space.

Each of these moments today gave me something to consider…I went from joy to frustration on this day and then exhaustion as I had walked more than 15 miles, much of it uphill. After I made it back to my room, I relaxed with some soccer on TV and well-deserved sleep.

May you be happy, may you be well

At the top of Enoshima is this sitting area

If you are eating in public, crows and hawks will steal your food right out of your hand!

In the dark caves at Hasedera are these small shrines

Along the streets of many towns are small Shinto shrines

Selfie along a neighborhood road in Kamakura

I’m Not Very Sneaky

March 24, 2024 ~ tgentryfunk ~ Leave a comment

OK, so, for full disclosure, I wasn’t trying to get caught. I thought I could walk into the hotel, casually walk to the elevator, punch floor number 8, and then ride up to see the terrace where the Godzilla head is located. I failed on all accounts. After my capture and return to the lobby and being politely asked to leave, I realized I was not, as I imagine, someone who can slip into and out of a building.

If you are interested, in Shinjuku on a terrace at the Hotel Gramercy is a sculpture of Godzilla. It’s very large. You can see the creature from street level and in the past, it was possible to walk into the hotel, head up to the 8th floor, purchase something from the cafe, and then see the Godzilla.

GODZILLA! Hotel Grammercy is the black-and-white lined building on the left.

At some point, I think the Hotel had had enough of random tourists going into this very nice hotel and disturbing their guests. So, they made it a bit more difficult to gain access. On this day, I did what many online recommended which was to walk like I had a purpose (as a guest of the hotel) and tap the elevator button to take the short ride to the 8th floor. My plan was to obviously buy something in the cafe ( that was a requirement ) and then see the Godzilla and take pictures.

So, I ignored the sign saying DON’T DO THIS and walked to the elevator. You have to pass the front desk on the way in and the elevator is within view of the desk. I simply walked up to the elevator and a very quick “sumimasen!” was spoken from over my right shoulder. I turned, slowly, and was asked to produce my room key. Oops. I explained I wanted to see the Godzilla and was told politely that I could not, it was closed, and something else I couldn’t understand. I was escorted to the front door with many kind phrases of apology.

As I walked out I grabbed a shot of the sign saying DON’T TRY THIS…ah well. Thwarted in my attempt to see Godzilla.

Outside of the Hotel is a street filled with all kinds of clubs. They were of various types and styles, and in some of the alleys were more discreet love hotels. I think Japan is the only place I’ve come across that has these kinds of hotels clearly marked as somehow different or unique. They tend to stand out, as they say…like this one.

The non-conspicuous love hotel in Shinjuku

As I walked these streets about a block from the main drag of Shinjuku, the area looked a little more unusual, the clubs a bit more edgy, so to speak. Down one alley were photographs of women in a variety of undress and on the sides of some buildings were murals with interesting images. I’ll let your imagination take over…it was interesting. A man was standing outside of one place and beckoned me in…I said no thank you and he just smiled.

My wandering around Tokyo had taken an interesting turn and I found myself kind of in awe of it all.

A quick shot as I was being hustled along the street.

My walks took me from Shinjuku to Shibuya and Ginza. Each part of Tokyo has its own style and vibe. In Ginza, it’s an area tuned to the rich and famous dial on your FM radio. On this Saturday, the road was closed and people walked freely down the street….

Lastly, I grabbed some video of the Shibuya crossing…it’s a fun place to see and experience…a video is the best way to get the feel of the place. It’s packed with people.

The clipped version you see here took off the tops of everyone’s heads…that’s not how I shot it and that is how WordPress published it.

Finding and losing my way in Tokyo

March 23, 2024March 23, 2024 ~ tgentryfunk ~ Leave a comment

I’ve often relied on Apple Maps for my travels in Japan and generally speaking, the directions are accurate. However, the street directions for locations in the city sometimes leave something to be desired. This fact is particularly true if you rely on your watch to alert you to turns etc. The watch face will say “Turn in 200 feet” and then you’ll find a dead end at that turn. The problem has occurred more than once and one this day, I experienced a somewhat hilarious suggestion from the map.

My plan was to get to Hamarikyo Gardens and I plugged in the location into the phone/watch. The map dutifully stated I needed to exit at Akebanebashi station. I looked at the map on my phone and it sure as hell did NOT look like that was the station…the phone helpfully suggested a 10 minutes walk out of the station to the park. Hmmmm.

Hamarikyo Gardens in the midst of the city

When I exited, I was smack dab at the Tokyo Tower a good 2 miles away from my location! Dude. Seriously? I took the side trip and the message to head to the Tower and maybe even head up the elevator! Sadly, the wait was 2 hours and after some photos, I headed back to the train and decided to navigate my own way to the gardens. Sure enough, I made it to Shidome and the location. I entered the physical address and the phone took me the wrong way…I stopped, looked around, and saw the park about 100 yards behind me…I turned and walked into this beautiful spot very close to Tsukiji Fish Market (the new one). The silliness was worth it and I photographed the very first sakura blossom in the park. The Yoshino cherry trees in the gardens are some of the oldest in the city and I grabbed the shot, looking in wonder at the expression of joy this flower gave to me in the moment.

As for photography, the bright sun and cloudless sky blew out the colors and photography was a challenge. I played with the shadows in the trees and tried to find some interesting spots. The ancient duck blinds, installed in the 18th century for sport, were still in place, and workers with repairing one of the older reconstructions. The Park was originally the home to the 8th Shogun of Edo and the grounds are remarkably intact.

The ONE thing to keep in mind in Japan is the amount of walking that is required of anyone wanting to go anywhere. Too, stairs are all over the place and it’s not uncommon to walk miles and climb floors of stairs. For example, yesterday I walked 10 miles and climbed 70 flights of stairs….a relatively average day.

Each of the places I visited were first-time experiences and I felt lucky to make it to each location. I sat at Hamarikyu Gardens and sat on one of the many small sitting areas…this one in the trees at the north end of the park. I wrote in my journal and admired the setting and my good fortune.

Hamarikyo Gardens…notice the bride in the distance

By about 5:00PM I was spent and ended my day at Ichiran Ramen, a very popular spot, quiet this early in the evening. I quietly ate my ramen, made a stop for an umbrella (I left mine at home), and dropped by 7-11 for some snacks. Once at the room, I watched the Sumo Grand Championship on TV and fell into a fitful sleep.

Ichiran Ramen in all its glory…I’m sitting in one of the private booths

Today promises to be equally adventurous as I head into Harajuku, Shibuya, and Shinjuku to capture the elusive Godzilla. Will I finally make my way to the building where it lives?

May you be happy, may you be well