Bhutan Days 6 & 7

Our travels to the eastern part of Bhutan was a long day. The roads in Bhutan are generally good AND the countours around the mountains take hours even though distances are short. Combine that situation with travel in vehicles no more than 35 – 40 miles per hour, and the process of travel from place to place is much longer than one might expect.

At the same time, our travel allows for a more nuanced approach, giving us time to stop for tea, photograph, and talk to people along the way. This very intentional approach to seeing a place makes for a much more considerate experience.

SO, we made our way across the country. Once in CHamkar – BUmthag, we settled into our residence for a couple of days, and then began our day in the pouring rain.

Jambay Lhakhang, Chamkar, Bhutan

Our first temple was among the oldest temples imn Bhutan, Jambay Lhakhang. Build in the 600s, this temple’s interior shrine room is filled with statues of Padmasambhava and is 8 emanations. In addition, the space includes relics and ancient objects referencing Buddhism deep past in this region. Some folks refer to the Bumthang Valley as the cultural heart of Bhuddhism in Bhutan. Everyone from Pema Lingpa, Longchenpa, and Padmasambhava visited this place, l;eaving a mark on the culture and the landscape.

Max shopping outside Jambay

On a typicl day here in Bumthang, we would have walked the short distance to each of the temple along a dirt path to Kurjey Lhakhang, the location of the cave where Padmasambhava meditated more than 1400 years ago. Today, we took the bus to the temple and visited the shrine room and saw the cave that Padmasambhava sat in. If you ever wanted to visit one of the holiest, most sacred Buddhist shrines in the world, this one is it. The cave is distinctive in that according to legend, Padmasambhava left his mark in the wall of the cave. We sat for a while in this shrine room as Tenzin told us the story of Padmasambhava and his journey to Bhutan.

From Kurje Lhakhang, we made our way to Pema Lingpa’s temple, Tamzhing Lhakhang, across the river. Here we saw a group of people from Vietnam reciting the 100 Syllable Mantra. The temple was alive with sound, and we visted the shrine room, and saw the paintings on the wall placed there in teh 15th century.

Padmasambhava at Tamzhing Lhakhang

From there we headed to a local farm house for lunch to taste local food and learn aboiut how it was made. The food, by far, was among the best we sampled in Bhutan.

Preparing food in Bumthang

After the farmhouse we headed back to the Hotel and then into town. Tomorrow, our journey takes us to Phobijikha Valley and a hike through the valley and a visit to the Black Necked Crane research facility.

Bhutan Day 5: In Bumthang

You could feel it in the air as we crossed the pass; the remnants of winter’s chill holding onto the air in this high country (about 11,000 feet). Clouds hung low over the mountains as ribbons of rain tinted the sky dark gray in the distance. Our drive from Trongsa was manageable, and we had the chance to wander, a bit, to see textiles and the ancient ways of weacing using a loom and plant-dyed yak wool, as well as just settle into an early evening in Chamkar.

At this 1/2 way point in our travels in Bhutan, we’re in a groove, many of us no longer saddled with restlessness and lack of sleep. Each day we’re eager to se what’s next, what’s around the corner, and what new story we’ll hear from Tenzin.

As I did yesterday, you’ll hear from folks on our trip, and their insights and experiences in the Land of thhe Thunder Dragon. In my 6th visit to this p[lace, I remain in awe of the ways in which people live their lives, weaving together the ancient and the modern in such unique forms. As in all places and cultures, managing the pressure of capitalist demands and retaining cultural identity is a huge struggle for the country and the people.

Like so many of us in the world, navigating consumption and sustainability is a dance that few have managed to learn. When you’re here you can see how capitalist culture slowly strips away local knowledge and customs, attacking the very core of personal and community freedom. At the asme time, I am a part of that process, bringing colonial identities into this place. The tension for the Bhutanese and Bhutan is to maintain the delicate balance of tourism (one of the three pillars of the economy) and providing guardrails around established tradition and identity. That’s a lot of deep information for this light-hearted blog, and it needs to be said.

Beth: So far, we have learned and seen so many aspects of the culture. What I have found is how progressive the community is and the religion. They welcome people from outside including tourists which they consider as guests. It was also surprising that since they have such and old and long-term way of thinking and living within their culture they are so open to people being LGBTQ+ or whatever made people happy and healthy and love who they are, which is much more higher thinking than most countries are still working on. 

Luisa: This has been an amazing trip. From the spectacular building, breathtaking views, kind and welcoming people, learning about this country has open my interest in learning more about Buddhism. I considered this “A trip of a lifetime”. Love some words they use here: there is no good bye, there is I’ll see you again, there is no tourist, you are a guest.

Prayer Flags (photo by Brian)
Trongsa Dzong (photo by Beth)
Monks at Trongsa (photo by Luisa)
A Ronan sighting in Jakar

Bhutan Day 4: From Punakha to Trongsa

The center of political power in Bhutan is firmly situated in Trongsa, the former capital of the country. The former province was among the most economically powerful in the region for centuries before the country of Bhutan existed as a single entity. Testimony to that past is the massive Dzong sitting on a north-south axis.

Our travels today took us to the Dzong, the National Museum, and various stops along the way seeing yak, photographing the mountains and riding our small bus for hours.

I asked our group to write something about their experiences so far. Today you’ll hear from a few people as they consider this trip. Enjoy the photos and commentary!

Ronan: One of my favorite moments so far in this trip was the Hong Kong Ladies’ night market, where we tried really good food and bought fun things. We saw a lot of people selling clothing, bags, and other souvenirs. I also tried these beef skewers that I thought were going to be questionable, but they were good. They were slowly grilled and seasoned to perfection. Sadly, we didn’t bring enough cash to buy more things so all we were able to get was the food and 3D printed snakes. 

Nancy: My favorite moment of the trip thus far was waking up at 2am in Thimphu and happening to glance out the hotel window to see a giant golden buddha statue glowing in the dark of the night. I rubbed my eyes to make sure I was seeing correctly, and opened them again to realize it was indeed, still there! I felt welcomed by the country of Bhutan and watched over as I went back to sleep for a few hours. We visited the statue the following day and I later learned that the giant statue was transported to the area in three pieces. I can imagine the shock of seeing the giant pieces traveling on the road by all those they passed along the way.  

Brian: Thus far I am most struck and enjoying the continuous array of prayer flags throughout the environment. Strung on bridges; wrapped around stupas; planted high on hillsides or ridge lines on long vertical poles; yellow ones lining the winding road ascending the mountain to the golden buddha; tall white funereal ones planted in groups high on hillsides commemorating a relative. They are literally everywhere and bring so much color and joy to traveling through this beautiful landscape.

Plant-dyed yarn, Bumthang (photo by Nancy)
Loom in Bumthang (photo by Nancy)
Prayer Wheel, Trongsa Dzong (photo by Brian)
Tenzin and his Mom in Tsangkhap
House in Tsangkhap Village near Trongsa
Trongsa Dzong
Max at Trongsa
Beth at Trongsa
Ronan at Trongsa

Bhutan Day 2: Winding Roads to Punakha

With a little more sleep and a bit more refreshed we made our way around Thimphu for the morning visiting the handmade paper factory, the Dordenma statue that overlooks the city, and on the road to Punakha.

Our morning began at 7:00 AM and after a tasty breakfast, we traveled to the J-P Paper Factory. The process is fascinating and we took our time understanding the paper preparation and asking questions. Made from the bark from the Daphne tree, the bark is stripped, separated by hand, and then made into a mush/slurry in water that is then transferred to a vat where a worker uses a bamboo screen to separate the mush from the water. Individual sheets are pressed and then separated to dry. As you can see from these images, the work is involved and detailed.

From the factory, we drove the steep hills to Dordenma Buddha temple complex and toured the shrine rooms and grounds. The project, begun in 2006 is nearing completion, and the site is massive. The intricate craftwork, painting, and statuary are remarkable (I use this work A LOT in Bhutan), and we heard from Namgay and Tenzin about the project and its importance to Bhutan.

We had a bite ot eat (food on this trip has been exceptional), and drove the winding roads to Punakha with a stop at Dochu-la Pass. The Pass is the site of Chortens that honor important individuals in Bhutan, their ashes interred in the structures.

Chortens about 6 feet tall on the pass

Our adventures led us to the inevitable purchase of dried cheese. A delicacy inspired by culinary experts, this cheese is available at roadside stands almost everywhere in the country. I offered ONE caveat to those brave souls who decided to purchase these bits of hard ambroisa: they are a commitment in time in your mouth. To be specific, HOURS of time in your mouth. See, the cheese is rock-hard…no, really, like a stone. It slowly (SLOWLY) dissolves in your mouth. The taste is an acquired one and a couple of our travelers partook in the effort. I’ll let them regail you with the stories here (stay tuned to this channel!).

Dried Cheese; photo by Brian Miller

We finished our day in Punakha near the confluence of the Mo Chu and Po Chu rivers….tomorrow, if the weather holds, we’ll raft this stretch.

Have a wonderful day!

In Bhutan: Day 1

OK, let’s just get this out of the way: Bhutan is an amazing place in the world. I’ve visited multip0le times and made friends here. While the struggle is real to provide education and jobs to the population, few places address those needs so directly. Bringing students to this place has been some of my work for the past 16 years, and I’m lucky to have had willing travelers to come to a place few have even heard of.

Our first day in Bhutan began peacefully. We landed around 10:30AM and were picked up by my friend Namgay and Illuminating Tours. The welcome was wonderful, and we hopped on the small bus to our first stop at Kyichu Temple in Paro.

One of the oldest temples in Bhutan, constructed in the 7th century, the building is filled with statues of important teachers and leaders, as well as shrine rooms dedicated to the Buddha and Padmasambhava. Padmasambhava, or Guru Rinpoche, brought Buddhism to Bhutan (and to Tibet) and this location was one of a few that the Guru established in the region.

Spinning the Prayer wheels
Finding time to draw
Wandering the grounds at Kyichu
Flowers blooming all around the gardens

After Kyichu we ate lunch and made our way to Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan. On the way, we stopped for a hike at the Iron Bridge. Legend and history states that a Tibetan ironworker came to Bhutan and formed the iron links that made up the bridge in the 16th century. We walked around the area, headed up to the stupa on the hill.

Up the hill to the stupa at Iron Bridge
Iron Bridge over the Paro river

As we make our way around the Thimphu today and Punakha tomorrow, we’ll see how things unfold in terms of weather (hoping it holds for our rafting trip in 2 days), and hikes to temples in and around Punakha!

Just 75 Days Until Bhutan Travel!

Sometimes planning for an international trip with groups is a kind fo shell game trying to find the best flights for the best price. Some tools simplify the process, AND the facts are these: watching and waiting pays. Using your research skills does make a difference!

For our trip to Bhutan, I was able to grab very reasonable flights to and from Asia on United Airlines. Everyone has a favorite carrier, and United (and ANA) are the ones I have chosen. When I’ve encountered a problem, they have always been helpful. Always.

For our trip, I planned an evening in Hong Kong on our way east. We’ll land in Hong Kong around 7:30PM and then head to the Ladies Night Market for a wonderfuil experience. I’ve been to this market a few times, and it’s a great introduction to the city. Breaking up the trip to Bhutan will hopefully allow us to be rested by the tie we land in Paro!

We’ll head to Bangkok at a reasonable 9:00AM and arrive at 11:25AM. We’ll head to our hotel, get settled (briefly), and then go into the city for a visit to the temples on the Chao Phraya river. From there we’ll head back to our Hotel in teh evening, grab some food in Lat Krabang, and get ready for a VERY early AM flight to Bhutan (6:00AM!).

We arrive in Paro, Bhutan around 11:30AM (it’s a short flight and usually includes a brief stop in Kolkata, India). Once we land, we’ll be visiting a variety of temples, and sites. Our days in Bhutan are full and include travel across the country as far West as Bumtang/Jakar.

We’ll return to the U.S. on April 2nd on a long flight day. Watch this space for more detailed information about our trip and travel!

Itinerary: Thailand and Bhutan, March 2026

While we’re a year away from our travels, it’s not too early to prepare for the trip. We will fly from Albuquerque to LA and then on to Bangkok. Our adventure begins, as it always does in Albuquerque, at a ridiculously early flight. Our time on planes will be almost 18 hours and about 24 hours of travel to Thailand. If you have never flown to Asia, you should know that it is a long travel day.

Once in Thailand, we’ll spend just two nights in the city and spend most of our time on the Chao Phraya river and in the temples that line its banks. The temperature will seem hot to us for March and we’ll dress accordingly. After some street food in Lat Krabang, we’ll take another early morning flight to Bhutan (we depart around 5:00AM!) for the short flight into Paro. From there, we’ll move across the country, west to east, stopping along the way in Thimphu, Punakha, Trongsa, Jakar, and back again. Along the way, we’ll visit temples, schools, and Dzongs, and hike on beautiful trails into the forests of pine. Our final hike will be to the famous Tiger’s Nest, a 3-hour hike up to the temple.

We return to Albuquerque through Bangkok in a single day, making the adventure that much more exciting (or exhausting, depending on your perspective). Below is a brief itinerary; a more detailed one will be forthcoming in the next few weeks. All locations in Bhutan are subject to change due to weather or other conditions.

Day 1: AM Flight to LAX, LAX to Hong Kong, overnight in Hong Kong March 21st; travel to BKK, arrive around noon on March 22nd
STAY: Great Residence Hotel, 1 night
Day 2: Downtown Bangkok, Chao Phraya River, Temples, evening street food in Lat Krabang
Day 3: AM Flight to Bhutan – Arrive Paro early afternoon. National Museum, Paro Dzong drive to Thimphu, evening in Thimphu.
Day 4: Thimphu to Punakha: Chimi Lhakhang, a monastery dedicated to Lama Drukpa Kuenley (the Divine Madman), Punakha Dzong.
Day 5: Punakha to Trongsa: stops along the road (could be a long day), stay in Yangkill. First visit to Trongsa Middle School.
Day 6: Trongsa Dzong, Trongsa National Museum; travel to Bumthang, Jakar
Day 7: Tang Valley; Orgyen Choling House (story of Pema Lingpa)
Day 8: Tang Valley to Punakha: Evening hike to cremation grounds.
Day 9: Punakha to Paro: hike to Tango University. A visit to see the Takin! Evening in Paro.
Day 10: Hike to the Tiger’s Nest
Day 11/12: Return to Bangkok and the US

We generally fly United / ANA Airlines for this trip. Costs for travel are generally around $1600 for flights to Bangkok and back (although, as I write this, flights are very inexpensive, around $950). Our flight into Bhutan is roughly $800RT (prices can and do change for this ticket; we’ll lock in all costs about six months before travel).

Costs in Thailand are relatively inexpensive, no more than about $200 in total. In Bhutan, we’ll have a daily rate of around $300 per day (subject to change). These costs are all-inclusive in terms of transportation, food, and housing.

Total Costs for the trip will be between $4200 and $5000 depending on flights (that’s our big unknown). In past years, the least expensive trip was $3600 and the most expensive was $4800. Should things change dramatically, I will alert you in plenty of time.

All money is collected in-house, and refunds are granted in full up until we purchase flights and book our Bhutan travel. Funds are electronically transferred to Bhutan in full 60 days before departure.

You can make payments to the school in any amount you like up to December 1st. Once all funds are collected, I’ll book all plane tickets. We offer trip insurance through Allianz. The insurance is optional. Medical coverage and evacuation insurance for the trip are provided by the school for all student travelers.

Finally, all travelers are required to get several vaccines for this trip. A list will be provided at our first official meeting in April. All travelers must provide proof of vaccination prior to departure. We use New Mexico Travel Health Services for vaccinations, and you can get your vaccinations elsewhere.

To say that travel to Bhutan is an adventure is an understatement. I hope you will join us on this trip to the Land of the Thunder Dragon!

Travel to Bhutan, Spring 2026

After two years of trips to Japan, we’re returning to Bhutan in March 2026. This trip will be exclusive to Thailand and Bhutan, allowingng us to spend more time in both places and to have an opportunity to see more places and visit with more people in Bhutan.

Following my previous trips to Bhutan, we will fly into Bangkok. For a couple of days, we will visit Bangkok and the temples along the Chao Phraya River. Our goal is to understand the uniqueness of Thai culture and the influences of Hinduism and Buddhism on Thai history. In addition, we’ll investigate the colonial history of the city which will allow us to gain a rich background in the ways modern Thailand developed.

Street Food in Lat Krabang

Our visits in Bangkok will include Temple or Wat Arun, Wat Pho (that houses the reclining buddha), Wat Phra Kaew (Emerald Buddha), and a few other sites in walking distance to those temples.

In addition, we will visit Chinatown, street food vendors in Lat Krabang, and hang out at the hotel pool after a day in the 90 degree heat!

We’ll travel to Bhutan on an early AM flight to Paro on Bhutan Airlines, landing around 11:00AM and beginning our journey through the country. We will be met by my friend Namgay Tsangkhap, and he will lead us to Thimphu and the Buddha temple in the hills above the city.

The Tiger’s Nest near Paro, Bhutan

After a night in Thimphu, we’ll begin our eastern trek across Bhutan on the only road that crosses the country. Along the way, we’ll venture to Punakha, Wangdue Phodrang, Trongsa, and eventually to Jakar/Bumtang.

Along the way, you’ll hike forested trails, hear from monks about their lives, and sample local food. You’ll get a chance to meditate in ancient temples and reflect on what it must be like to live in the land of the Thunder Dragon. In addition to these experiences, we will visit the Tsangkhap school and provide school supplies for students. We’ll play soccer, basketball, and maybe bring some frisbees and spend a little time getting to know students in Bhutan.

Hiking along the Mo Chu

Stay tuned here for more information about travel to Bhutan and details about the itinerary, costs, and additional information.

Tashi Delek!

Bhutan History Moment: Padmasambhava

Among the remarkable pieces of Bhutanese History is the story of Padmasambhava and the arrival of Buddhism to the region.  Padmasambhava, popularly known as Guru Rinpoche or Guru Drubchu in Bhutan, traveled to the Himalayan region in the 8th century.  An excellent short essay on his travels can be found on about.com HERE.

Padmasambhava carved into the hillside on the road to Tango Buddhist University.
Padmasambhava carved into the hillside on the road to Tango Buddhist University.

You will find, as we travel around Bhutan, paintings, sculptures, carvings, and stories about this legendary figure.  As we make our way across the country, keep your eyes open for these signs of his travels and historical sites that honor his gift to Bhutan.

Enjoy!

Ready for a Trip to Asia?

Taktsang Temple near Paro, Bhutan
Taktsang Temple near Paro, Bhutan

Imagine walking the streets of Kyoto, Japan.  We dart into a small side street in Gion, seeing the remarkable architecture and the spaces of traditional Japan.  Or imagine a climb up the side of a cliff face, walking on ancient steps to the site of the Tiger’s Nest, Taktsang, near Paro, Bhutan.

Our Asia trip this year includes trips to Japan, Bangkok, and Bhutan.  We will meet students and families, see temples, shrines, museums, and schools.  Our group will travel light, moving from place to place, seeing all there is to see on this remarkable experience.

Click here: for the detailed itinerary and trip costs.

For more detailed information, contact Tom Gentry-Funk at tgentryfunk@sandiaprep.org.

Peace to you!

TGF