The Long Road Home

Traveling back to the U.S. after weeks in Asia is a physical challenge. The long flights, the cramped seating, the limited physical space, all of this adds up to relatively minor struggles on the way home.

For our group, we woke on the last day with a casual morning planning for a quick 15 minute ride to the airport. Our flight from Paro heads to Bangkok via a stop in Kolkata, and the four-hour flight including the stop in Kolkata is plesant enough given what we faced on the following day.

Flying Bhutan Airlines is a gentle experience in terms of the ease of boarding, the kindness of the staff, and the attentiveness to passenger needs. You get plenty of food and drinks on these flights, and it gives you time to process the fact that you’re leaving Bhutan for another world.

One of the two meals served on this flight from Paro to Bangkok

If you’re traveling from Bhutan TO the U.S., it’s typically a day layover in Bangkok and then a flight the following day to the U.S. When we landed in Bangkok, about 4:00PM local time, we grabbed our schedule van to the The Great Residence Hotel and planned a visit to a market that evening.

Nancy found a markey close to our hotel (about a 10 minute walk) and we made our way in the heat of the evening to the Suvarnabhumi Market on Lat Kranbang Avenue. By the time we arrived, we were soaked, and eager to find some food and other items of interest. The chocies were extensive, from fried chicken to salmon sashimi to mango rice.

Flowers are everywhere in Bangkok
Walking to the Market

After we had our fill of sashimi, chicken wings, and fruit, we wandered back to the hotel for our final night in Asia, feeling all the feels of the end of a trip. Back at the hotel, we were seranaded by local musicians playing a variety of pop hits.

The musicians playing “She’s the One” by World Party

The following day, our flight departed Bangkok at about 3:00 PM, and we were warned to get to the airport with about three hours to spare. The advice was accurate as we entered the airport in this situation:

The crowds at Suvarnabhumi Airport

In the largest U.S. airports, you’ll typically see 6 to 10 airlines in the departure hall. Here, there are more than 30 different airlines flying all over the world. The United desks only have 3 kiosks compared to Albuquerque’s tiny airport of 8…the contrast is fascinating and you feel like the U.S. is just one of hundreds of nations in this departure hall. It’s an amazing experience to realize we are just one of many.

We boarded the flight with no hassles and prepared for the long trip home. We started in Bangkok at about 3:30PM and arrived in LA the same day at 7:30PM…the wonders of time travel!

We’re waaayyy far from home in Bangkok!
Not even 1/2 way home or 1/2 way across the Pacific with 6:33 hrs left to travel

We made it to Albuquerque at about 12:20AM and the group split into it’s various subgroups as we bolted for home. WIthin minutes of arrival, we were all on our way to various homes and houses, escaping the tight knit community we created on these 14 days.

Of the many trips I’ve taken to Bhutan, none have been as connected and lovely as this one. The group was in tune,m the vibe was real, and we bonded by the end with so many inside jokes and secret handshakes. Personally, I was worried before our depature and I needn’t have been. These people from various backgrounds and perspectives were a joy to travel with. We explored, adventured, and rested together. What else can you say about a magical journey to the Land of the Thunder Dragon?

Bhutan Finals Days: Joy is sometimes a choice…

When you’re in Bhutan, joy comes easily and often. The joy of a cup of “milk tea” poured as you say “thank you”; waking up to clear skies and views of the Himalayas; watching dancers at the Paro Tsechu express the story of Milarepa. All of these things illicit joy and wonder in moments across time and space in Bhutan.

On these final days of our trip in the country, we had so many experiences and moments of wonder, that it’s hard to fit into this blog post. Let’s start with our trip to Paro from the Phobjikha Valley. If you haven’t ridden on the roads that cross Bhutan, you don’t realize that distance is relative in terms of time and space. 100 KM trip in my home state of New Mexico, it would take about an hour. In Bhutan, that same distance takes hours, stops, and photo opportunities. The pace is slow (deliberately so), and in many ways a kind of beautiful adventure of what’s around the next bend in the road.

Around a corner, the Himalayas
Stop….photo by Maxine

The road, today, led us into Paro, and we made our way to the Tsechu, a religious festival. The Tsechu lasted for about a week, and we visited on the second day of the celebrations. On this day, the afternoon session told the story of Milarepa and the Hunter. The story is a song sung between Milarepa, a Buddhist monk, and a hunter Chirawa Gönpo Dorje. The dance between the two includes animals and the dancers help the hunter have a change of heart.

Later the in day, we headed to our hotel, and rested for our final hike to Taktsang (the Tiger’s Nest).

Our entire trip, it seems, led us to this hike to a temple perched on the side of a mountain, framed by rock and rhododendrons. The day began early as we attempted to beat the crowds making a pilgramage. We started the hike on a well-traveled trail through the forests that drape the mountains in this area. Mixed with pines and flowering bushes, the way is beautiful (if crowded) as we wound our way up to about 11,000 feet above the valley floor.

Looking up at the Temple from the Cafe

Each member of our group walked at our own pace with everyone making it to the Cafe within an hour. In reality, our pace was fast, and within about 1:45 hr were at the temple itself. To say this hike and this site is spectacular is understating it. The drama of walking up to the temple a visiting each of the shrine rooms is magical. You have aa sense of accomplishment, knowing that your effort paid off in an incredible way.

Overlooking the Tiger’s Nest…photo by Nancy

Our return to the valley floor was fast (around 45 minutes), and we headed from the hike into Paro town to find personal treasures to take home. We started it off in Namgay’s favorite new sopt, Brioche Cafe. We snacked on cakes, coffee and tea.

A cool spot in Paro

Our afternoon ended with traditional hot stone baths and tea. The day was just about perfect, and by the time we made it back to the hotel on this final night, we were tired and deeply satisfied with everything we accomplished.

Hot, fire-heated stone dropped into the wooden tub behind the slats; Wormwood leaves placed in the hot water…photo by Nancy

Of course, it’s hard to let go of Bhutan and Bhutan doesn’t really let go of you. Still, as this portion of the trip came to a close, we all talked about how this experience shaped us. Honestly, I cannot think of a better way to spend time with folks over a Spring Break.

Bhutan Day 2: Winding Roads to Punakha

With a little more sleep and a bit more refreshed we made our way around Thimphu for the morning visiting the handmade paper factory, the Dordenma statue that overlooks the city, and on the road to Punakha.

Our morning began at 7:00 AM and after a tasty breakfast, we traveled to the J-P Paper Factory. The process is fascinating and we took our time understanding the paper preparation and asking questions. Made from the bark from the Daphne tree, the bark is stripped, separated by hand, and then made into a mush/slurry in water that is then transferred to a vat where a worker uses a bamboo screen to separate the mush from the water. Individual sheets are pressed and then separated to dry. As you can see from these images, the work is involved and detailed.

From the factory, we drove the steep hills to Dordenma Buddha temple complex and toured the shrine rooms and grounds. The project, begun in 2006 is nearing completion, and the site is massive. The intricate craftwork, painting, and statuary are remarkable (I use this work A LOT in Bhutan), and we heard from Namgay and Tenzin about the project and its importance to Bhutan.

We had a bite ot eat (food on this trip has been exceptional), and drove the winding roads to Punakha with a stop at Dochu-la Pass. The Pass is the site of Chortens that honor important individuals in Bhutan, their ashes interred in the structures.

Chortens about 6 feet tall on the pass

Our adventures led us to the inevitable purchase of dried cheese. A delicacy inspired by culinary experts, this cheese is available at roadside stands almost everywhere in the country. I offered ONE caveat to those brave souls who decided to purchase these bits of hard ambroisa: they are a commitment in time in your mouth. To be specific, HOURS of time in your mouth. See, the cheese is rock-hard…no, really, like a stone. It slowly (SLOWLY) dissolves in your mouth. The taste is an acquired one and a couple of our travelers partook in the effort. I’ll let them regail you with the stories here (stay tuned to this channel!).

Dried Cheese; photo by Brian Miller

We finished our day in Punakha near the confluence of the Mo Chu and Po Chu rivers….tomorrow, if the weather holds, we’ll raft this stretch.

Have a wonderful day!

Mornings are Hard; Days are Wonderful

Waiting to head to Suvarnabhumi airport here at 3:33 AM, I think about really early mornings. For the past few days we’ve been moving at O Dark-30, and the shock of being awake is always a challenge. Still, we’re traveling across the globe, and time is relative.

For the past 2 (has it been 2?) days, we’ve been in Hong Kong and now Bangkok, finding ways to meet and engage.

In Hong Kong, we “Ubered” to the Ladies Night Market despite a 14:45 hr flight. Our drivers Chit and Wing Kin offered information about the night market (Mong Kok) and details about their lives in Hong Kong and Lantau. Their specific information made our night better!

Our group wandered the stalls, selecting various treasures and eating some tasty street food! As midnight rolled around, we went back to the hotel ( Regala Skycity) and immediately crashed.

Our 9:00 AM flight to Bangkok was uneventful, and we landed in the heat of the city. The Thai airport is beautiful and busy. The sights, sounds, smells, and sheer number of people are overwhelming with little sleep. Still, we pushed through, checked into the Great Residence Hotel and headed into the city.

The drive to the Chao Phraya river was eventful as Sanong taught us some Thai. He offered helpful information and after an hour in traffic we headed to the Golden Palace…as we walked to the entrance it, literally, closed in front of us. The gate was locked and we stood more than a little dumbfounded.

The temple complex sometimes closes unannounced, and that happened to us!

No worries, of course! We shifted gears and visited Wat Pho and the reclining Buddha.

Wat Pho is a quiet respite from the bustle of life. Many fewer people shuffled through the grounds as we walked into the many temples representign vrious aspects of historical Buddhism and individual buddhas in Thailand. In one building in particular, about 50 gold statues repesented the enlightenened teachers, all with very difference expressions on their faces from stern to laughing.

Throughout the complex, stupas representing different eras of contruction filled open plazas and were covered in small tiles of flowers and colorful designs.

Wat Pho

At Wat Pho, the the focus for many is the reclining Buddha. This representation of the Buddha is just before he died and statue is massive. As you take your shoes off at the entrance, a single file line of folks shuffle through the hall. The shock of this process was that they allowed photography in the space. It’s rare in sacred places in Asia to be able to photograph in a shrine room and I was intially taken by surprise…then, I saw people spending time looking and photographing, and it felt OK. So I snapped away.

Reclining Buddha

Our group was scattered around the Wat, and we eventually came back together to make our way by ferry across the river to Wat Arun, the Temple of the Dawn. The heat was getting to us, and lack of sleep, food, and heat crowded our brains. We managed to walk to the ferry at Tha Tien launch.

Boarding the Ferry to Wat Arun

Crossing the busy Chao Phraya is an adventure. Boats of various types are mototring up and down the river….our small ferry just had one job: cross the river. We managed it between massive boats and landed in just a few minutes at the other side.

Ferry ride Chao Phraya

Wat Arun is a huge stupa, covered in ceramic tiles from top to bottom. The current temple was expanded in the 19th century (originally constructed abou 400 years ago), and the size of the structure is hard to describe. Families and individuals were phtographing themselves in traditional dress and we watched the hundred of folks looking for the best spot to take a picture.

Photographing at Wat Arun
Wat Arun in the evening light

The weather was getting to us and we found our driver, Sanong, and headed back to our hotel, about 31 km away. Most of us crashed hard after a quick bite to eat, and prepared for our 3:45AM trip back to Suvarnabhumi Airport and our early AM flight to Bhutan!

More to come from students on the next post!